Courtesy of Bagteria
Dian Kuswandini, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta
| Sat, 06/06/2009 12:29 PM | Life
Why should diamonds get top billing as a girl's best friend? After all, it's your handbag that is always there for you.
Handbags, for women, are like practical jewelry - an accessory you can use. The shimmering ones make women shine; the classic ones give an air of elegance. And to build on these, if a woman wishes to show off her own dramatic flare, there's only one way for her to go: Vintage bags.
Vintage bags have been a fashion treasure for decades. Women loved these bags way back when; today, they're clamoring for them even more.
Popping up everywhere as the must-have trend of the moment, vintage bags are dominating catwalks and fashion magazines, side by side with vintage clothing and accessories, with "vintage" meaning dating anywhere from the 1920s to 1980s.
Hollywood stars such as Julia Roberts, Kate Moss, Sienna Miller and Dita von Teese are among the celebrities who have helped spread vintage fever across the globe in recent years.
The fever has had the grand old fashion houses scrambling to reproduce their own vintage collections, including handbags, while new designers are launching their vintage-inspired lines.
| Sat, 06/06/2009 12:29 PM | Life
Why should diamonds get top billing as a girl's best friend? After all, it's your handbag that is always there for you.
Handbags, for women, are like practical jewelry - an accessory you can use. The shimmering ones make women shine; the classic ones give an air of elegance. And to build on these, if a woman wishes to show off her own dramatic flare, there's only one way for her to go: Vintage bags.
Vintage bags have been a fashion treasure for decades. Women loved these bags way back when; today, they're clamoring for them even more.
Popping up everywhere as the must-have trend of the moment, vintage bags are dominating catwalks and fashion magazines, side by side with vintage clothing and accessories, with "vintage" meaning dating anywhere from the 1920s to 1980s.
Hollywood stars such as Julia Roberts, Kate Moss, Sienna Miller and Dita von Teese are among the celebrities who have helped spread vintage fever across the globe in recent years.
The fever has had the grand old fashion houses scrambling to reproduce their own vintage collections, including handbags, while new designers are launching their vintage-inspired lines.
Which means the term "vintage bags", which might traditionally have referred to secondhand or antique bags, has now been expanded to encompass those handbags made new but inspired by the past.
And these inspirations have been turned into various styles of bags. Some designers have come out with sophisticated details such as crystals and other gemstones, beads, fur and seashells. The others play with colorful lines, polka dots and other objects, while the rest keep it simple with clean cuts and plain colors. The styles might be different, but all of these bags reflect vintage flavors from different eras.
One of the world's leading brands for vintage-inspired handbags today is Bagteria, which became popular after its products were seen dangling off the arms of famous women such as Paris Hilton, Emma Thompson, Princess Zara Phillips, Martine McCutcheon, Audrey Tautou and Anggun C. Sasmi. While its dazzling pieces are scattered around boutiques across many world's fashion cities - Paris, Milan, London, New York, Tokyo - Bagteria originated from a workshop in Jakarta, and is owned by Indonesian designer Nancy Go.
"Vintage bags are everlasting and unique," Nancy says. "They fit and look beautiful when you carry them, whatever the occasion."
Nancy specializes in the antique-looking bags that are characterized by shimmering and distinctive ornaments such as glass beads, Swarovski crystals, seashells and feathers - all of which are combined with textiles including satin, silk, crocodile skin or lace.
For Nancy, the production method is as important as the materials. "Today most handbags are mass-produced. They are made in a hurry, reducing their quality," the Brazilian-born designer says. "For me, making vintage bags also means preserving old needlework techniques, like embroidery and crochet, as opposed to using modern machines."
Vintage bags, she adds, are not just mere items to be worn, but are more like family heirlooms, which can be passed on from one generation to another.
"When you buy a vintage bag, or a vintage-inspired one, you don't simply buy a handbag: You buy a work of art."
Nancy decided to create vintage bags after noticing the beautiful bags belonging to her mother and aunts. These bags were carefully made so they were still in good shape when they were passed to the younger generation.
Admiring their quality as much as their design, she decided to apply the old techniques of making handbags to her creations. Her handbags are handcrafted, made of robust materials, well cut and well made. In brief, her creations are made with love and care, giving each of them "a soul".
"I hope those who wear my bags can feel it," says Nancy, who produces her bags in limited numbers, making them sought after by collectors.
A close look at Nancy's creations shows they are inspired by the handbags of the 1920s to 1940s. During this era, handbags were dripping with femininity, covered with beads and sparkles, as well as embroidery, combined with fine fabrics such as satin, silk, fur and lace. In the other words: They're very girly! Other handbags popular during the 1940s were at the other end of the spectrum, made from wood and plastic because metal was saved for artillery supplies during World War II.
In the 1950s, the trend turned toward leather handbags. Popular handbag designers from fashion houses such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Gucci, Prada and Balenciaga made a successful appearance in this era, creating designs of what is described today as "classic". Ever heard of the popular Hermes Kelly Bag that was named after actress and Monaco princess Grace Kelly? It was thrust into the limelight in 1956, and has enjoyed an iconic status ever since.
Along with the Kelly bag, other designer vintage handbags continued to be popular after the 1960s, while adapting to other trends such as the psychedelic swirls of the hippie generation. During those days - the 1960s and 1970s - psychedelic-designed bags were ablaze with neon colors and patterns like bubbles. The 1980s saw a craze for clutch handbags, which were in demand because of the compact design that fit evening parties. The clutch of those days came in various colors worn to match the shoes. The icon since then? Nothing has really come up other than the quilted Chanel clutch so very popular recently.
Until the vintage bags stepped in.
The popularity of vintage bags is, as Nancy points out, because of their original designs and high quality, as well as their potential as collectibles.
Most of the designs are made to order, while others are produced in limited editions. This ensures that the woman who owns one can feel pride in knowing her bag is different and makes her stand out from the crowd. Most vintage handbags also made from fine materials, such as high-quality fabrics that are no longer manufactured, or are expensive. In addition, details such as the buttons, beads or other ornaments are rare and lovely.
No wonder collectors are hunting down these vintage handbags, whether for investment or because of their appreciation of history, especially for the roles and skills of previous generations, including respected designers. And being a part of this "generation-to-generation" history is what Nancy hopes to achieve.
Her mission is, she says, "to create bags that will be handed down as heirlooms from mothers to daughters and even granddaughters!"
Sidebox:
Confessions of a vintage-bag lover
Some women splash out on expensive outfits, others live for designer shoes. Arinta Samiktiawati has a different weakness: She splurges millions of rupiah on vintage and classic-looking handbags.
"It's OK for me to wear cheap shoes or ordinary outfits, but my handbags, they have to be extraordinary!" Arinta laughs.
Extraordinary, as she says, she demands her bags be authentic designer-made classic handbags. Already with a large closet filled with original handbags from Chanel, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Gianni Versace, Coach and Braun Buffel, Arinta says she just can't get enough of them.
"I love vintage and classic designer handbags because they're forever, they never go out of fashion," says Arinta, who is a manager at a Korean company.
Besides, Arinta points out, vintage bags reflect and represent the famous brands.
"If you carry a vintage Fendi, for example, people notice that it is Fendi because of its (iconic) design," she says. "But if you wear the newest design, nobody knows it's Fendi."
Vintage handbags, Arinta adds, also have higher or relatively more stable prices than contemporary ones. This means "it's more profitable if I want to sell those vintage bags again".
During the first years after she start collecting the bags in 1998, Arinta often sold off parts of her collection to other people for a high return. Now, however, she has stopped trading.
"I can still remember one day when someone spotted my handbag at a party. She fell in love with my bag and begged me to sell it to her," she says. The price the woman offered was so attractive "I sold her my bag so I went home with a plastic bag!" Arinta laughs.
"But now I don't want to sell my items anymore because I'm afraid I won't be able to find those bags again in the market."
Knowing that such handbags cost a small fortune - one of her LVs is valued at almost Rp 30 million - Arinta has to find ways to buy them. One of her strategies is to buy old floor stock, for example from boutiques in London.
"Formerly displayed bags are often priced at up to 60 percent cheaper (than those that weren't on display)," she says.
Another way, she says, is to buy secondhand ones.
"For me, it's OK to buy secondhand bags, as long as they're authentic," Arinta says. "No fake ones, please: I hate them."
Carrying a fake handbag, she says, takes away all her confidence. Once she bought a first-grade fake handbag just because she wanted to know how it felt to carry one. The fake handbag looked like an authentic one, Arinta says, but it didn't feel the same as the original - in short, it made her feel like a fake.
"I carried the bag to a mall, and somehow I lost my confidence there. I was worried if someone knew it a fake one."
And that's no surprise, because Arinta herself can tell whether a branded handbag is original or not.
"Even from a few meters away I can tell if it's authentic or not."
Arinta, who has one son, says her husband has been supportive of her vintage-bags hobby, although sometimes steps in to stop her from buying. When this happens, she knows what to do.
"When we go out together, I carry a cheap, ugly bag. That embarrasses him because actually my husband loves branded stuff too," Arinta says.
"So when he asks me to replace my bag with a better one, then that would be the moment when I say: ‘Allow me to buy the bag that I want first, then I can replace this (ugly) bag.’"
http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2009/06/06/v-is-for-vintage.html
And these inspirations have been turned into various styles of bags. Some designers have come out with sophisticated details such as crystals and other gemstones, beads, fur and seashells. The others play with colorful lines, polka dots and other objects, while the rest keep it simple with clean cuts and plain colors. The styles might be different, but all of these bags reflect vintage flavors from different eras.
One of the world's leading brands for vintage-inspired handbags today is Bagteria, which became popular after its products were seen dangling off the arms of famous women such as Paris Hilton, Emma Thompson, Princess Zara Phillips, Martine McCutcheon, Audrey Tautou and Anggun C. Sasmi. While its dazzling pieces are scattered around boutiques across many world's fashion cities - Paris, Milan, London, New York, Tokyo - Bagteria originated from a workshop in Jakarta, and is owned by Indonesian designer Nancy Go.
"Vintage bags are everlasting and unique," Nancy says. "They fit and look beautiful when you carry them, whatever the occasion."
Nancy specializes in the antique-looking bags that are characterized by shimmering and distinctive ornaments such as glass beads, Swarovski crystals, seashells and feathers - all of which are combined with textiles including satin, silk, crocodile skin or lace.
For Nancy, the production method is as important as the materials. "Today most handbags are mass-produced. They are made in a hurry, reducing their quality," the Brazilian-born designer says. "For me, making vintage bags also means preserving old needlework techniques, like embroidery and crochet, as opposed to using modern machines."
Vintage bags, she adds, are not just mere items to be worn, but are more like family heirlooms, which can be passed on from one generation to another.
"When you buy a vintage bag, or a vintage-inspired one, you don't simply buy a handbag: You buy a work of art."
Nancy decided to create vintage bags after noticing the beautiful bags belonging to her mother and aunts. These bags were carefully made so they were still in good shape when they were passed to the younger generation.
Admiring their quality as much as their design, she decided to apply the old techniques of making handbags to her creations. Her handbags are handcrafted, made of robust materials, well cut and well made. In brief, her creations are made with love and care, giving each of them "a soul".
"I hope those who wear my bags can feel it," says Nancy, who produces her bags in limited numbers, making them sought after by collectors.
A close look at Nancy's creations shows they are inspired by the handbags of the 1920s to 1940s. During this era, handbags were dripping with femininity, covered with beads and sparkles, as well as embroidery, combined with fine fabrics such as satin, silk, fur and lace. In the other words: They're very girly! Other handbags popular during the 1940s were at the other end of the spectrum, made from wood and plastic because metal was saved for artillery supplies during World War II.
In the 1950s, the trend turned toward leather handbags. Popular handbag designers from fashion houses such as Chanel, Louis Vuitton, Hermes, Gucci, Prada and Balenciaga made a successful appearance in this era, creating designs of what is described today as "classic". Ever heard of the popular Hermes Kelly Bag that was named after actress and Monaco princess Grace Kelly? It was thrust into the limelight in 1956, and has enjoyed an iconic status ever since.
Along with the Kelly bag, other designer vintage handbags continued to be popular after the 1960s, while adapting to other trends such as the psychedelic swirls of the hippie generation. During those days - the 1960s and 1970s - psychedelic-designed bags were ablaze with neon colors and patterns like bubbles. The 1980s saw a craze for clutch handbags, which were in demand because of the compact design that fit evening parties. The clutch of those days came in various colors worn to match the shoes. The icon since then? Nothing has really come up other than the quilted Chanel clutch so very popular recently.
Until the vintage bags stepped in.
The popularity of vintage bags is, as Nancy points out, because of their original designs and high quality, as well as their potential as collectibles.
Most of the designs are made to order, while others are produced in limited editions. This ensures that the woman who owns one can feel pride in knowing her bag is different and makes her stand out from the crowd. Most vintage handbags also made from fine materials, such as high-quality fabrics that are no longer manufactured, or are expensive. In addition, details such as the buttons, beads or other ornaments are rare and lovely.
No wonder collectors are hunting down these vintage handbags, whether for investment or because of their appreciation of history, especially for the roles and skills of previous generations, including respected designers. And being a part of this "generation-to-generation" history is what Nancy hopes to achieve.
Her mission is, she says, "to create bags that will be handed down as heirlooms from mothers to daughters and even granddaughters!"
Sidebox:
Confessions of a vintage-bag lover
Some women splash out on expensive outfits, others live for designer shoes. Arinta Samiktiawati has a different weakness: She splurges millions of rupiah on vintage and classic-looking handbags.
"It's OK for me to wear cheap shoes or ordinary outfits, but my handbags, they have to be extraordinary!" Arinta laughs.
Extraordinary, as she says, she demands her bags be authentic designer-made classic handbags. Already with a large closet filled with original handbags from Chanel, Prada, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Gianni Versace, Coach and Braun Buffel, Arinta says she just can't get enough of them.
"I love vintage and classic designer handbags because they're forever, they never go out of fashion," says Arinta, who is a manager at a Korean company.
Besides, Arinta points out, vintage bags reflect and represent the famous brands.
"If you carry a vintage Fendi, for example, people notice that it is Fendi because of its (iconic) design," she says. "But if you wear the newest design, nobody knows it's Fendi."
Vintage handbags, Arinta adds, also have higher or relatively more stable prices than contemporary ones. This means "it's more profitable if I want to sell those vintage bags again".
During the first years after she start collecting the bags in 1998, Arinta often sold off parts of her collection to other people for a high return. Now, however, she has stopped trading.
"I can still remember one day when someone spotted my handbag at a party. She fell in love with my bag and begged me to sell it to her," she says. The price the woman offered was so attractive "I sold her my bag so I went home with a plastic bag!" Arinta laughs.
"But now I don't want to sell my items anymore because I'm afraid I won't be able to find those bags again in the market."
Knowing that such handbags cost a small fortune - one of her LVs is valued at almost Rp 30 million - Arinta has to find ways to buy them. One of her strategies is to buy old floor stock, for example from boutiques in London.
"Formerly displayed bags are often priced at up to 60 percent cheaper (than those that weren't on display)," she says.
Another way, she says, is to buy secondhand ones.
"For me, it's OK to buy secondhand bags, as long as they're authentic," Arinta says. "No fake ones, please: I hate them."
Carrying a fake handbag, she says, takes away all her confidence. Once she bought a first-grade fake handbag just because she wanted to know how it felt to carry one. The fake handbag looked like an authentic one, Arinta says, but it didn't feel the same as the original - in short, it made her feel like a fake.
"I carried the bag to a mall, and somehow I lost my confidence there. I was worried if someone knew it a fake one."
And that's no surprise, because Arinta herself can tell whether a branded handbag is original or not.
"Even from a few meters away I can tell if it's authentic or not."
Arinta, who has one son, says her husband has been supportive of her vintage-bags hobby, although sometimes steps in to stop her from buying. When this happens, she knows what to do.
"When we go out together, I carry a cheap, ugly bag. That embarrasses him because actually my husband loves branded stuff too," Arinta says.
"So when he asks me to replace my bag with a better one, then that would be the moment when I say: ‘Allow me to buy the bag that I want first, then I can replace this (ugly) bag.’"
http://www.thejakartapost.com/news/2009/06/06/v-is-for-vintage.html